REEF

Second Wind for Retired Sailcloth

Cutting template for a wing-like garment, with radiating panels filled with repeating feather-shaped cutouts.
Azra Aksamija, Reef. Image courtesy of the artist.

REEF transforms retired New England sailcloth through collective hand-cutting into porous textiles that can become cloaks, canopies, and performance structures. Participants trace oyster shells directly onto a shared surface, creating a pattern that no one fully designs and no machine could reproduce in exactly the same way. As people work from the edges toward the center, they encounter and continue one another’s decisions. The project tests whether technical inefficiency can enable social efficacy, using artistic making as a method to investigate how discarded materials, shared labor, ecological attention, and new forms of value can be recomposed together.

Project Lead

Azra Akšamija, MIT

Research Team

Future Heritage Lab:

Merve Akdogan

Kailin Jones

Lillian Kology

Penelope Phylactopoulos

Oyster Lace Creators (MIT Museum Workshop “Time of Layers and Textures”):

Mariana Arcaya & family

Joseph and Lissa Ferreira

Ya Gao

Ikra Iftekhar

Nayeon Kim

Jonathan Lira

Diana Pareja

Josie Stiver

Research Areas

Textiles

Material Reuse

Coastal Ecologies

Collective Making

Creative Economies

Artistic Research

REEF begins when a sail reaches the end of its life on the water. Retired sailcloth from New England’s maritime industries is laid across shared tables and transformed through a simple rule: place an oyster shell on the cloth, trace it, and cut the shape away. Because every shell differs and every participant makes different decisions about placement, angle, precision, and continuation, the pattern remains open and cannot be predetermined.

Cutting changes both the material and the social conditions of making. The sail becomes porous to wind, air, light, and shadow and can take on new forms, from a body-scale cloak to a suspended canopy for shade and gathering. At the same time, participants work from different edges of one shared surface toward the center. In an initial MIT Museum workshop, this process required people to encounter, interpret, and continue one another’s work, gradually bringing them physically closer together.

REEF calls this formation a social reef: many small acts accumulating into a shared structure that no participant designed alone. The project tests a making methodology built from an incomplete rule, slow handwork, material resistance, distributed authorship, and the obligation to continue what someone else has begun. Its working hypothesis is that technical inefficiency can, in collective settings, enable social efficacy.

Rather than treating upcycling as an endpoint, REEF asks what new ecological and economic relations can form around discarded material. The transformed cloth may become shading, clothing, social fabric sculpture, or an artistic performance, including its connection to Living Bucentaur procession. The cloth records the decisions made; the protocol makes those decisions shareable. Artistic making becomes a method for discovering what materials, people, and practices become capable of doing together.

A person cuts repeating curved shapes into a large sheet of white textile while another person photographs the process in a design workshop.
Seven people stand together in a design workshop holding a large white textile sheet covered with repeating curved cutouts.

Related Projects & Events

Time of Layers and Textures: Slow-Making as a Collective Practice. Collective lace-cutting workshop at the MIT Museum, 8 August 2026, where the oyster-tracing method and the shared-surface protocol were first tested.

Living Bucentaur. The procession and collective making project through which the retired sails were gathered and the first wearable prototypes developed. SA+P procession to the MET building, 8 September 2026. Public presentation of the cut cloths as procession costumes.

Close-up of white textile material cut into repeating curved, scale-like shapes, with a pencil and scissors on the work surface.